My flight lands in Central African Republic (CAR) just after midnight. The small passport control and arrivals area – the size of a tennis court – is awash with passengers, officials, families reuniting and unlicensed baggage handlers attempting to whisk my bags off to their favoured taxi. I feel lucky to have Bruno, my country director, to lead me through the bewildering process. He has an effortless way about him and a polite manner that seems to take all the officials by surprise. Within minutes I am safely seated in Merlin’s car and on my way to the Merlin base in Bangui, the capital.
CAR is one of the world’s forgotten crises, a country the size of France with over 4 million people who have suffered instability and civil unrest since independence from France in 1960. Frequent government coups and regional tensions continue to create conflict. A peace deal has only just been signed between the current government and rebels in the northeast.
The problems here are immense – lack of infrastructure, a worsening health situation, no investment and its geographical position, landlocked between some of the world’s most challenging neighbours: Chad to the north, Sudan to the east, Republic of the Congo and Democratic Republic of Congo to the south, and Cameroon to the west.
Despite a clear need for aid, only three NGOs were working in the country in 2006. Thanks to their efforts and those of the U.N. Development Programme, alongside the country’s authorities, that number has now risen to over 20. Merlin has been working here since July 2007.
Merlin is based about 6km (4 miles) out of Bangui. As I walk around the area on my first full day, I immediately see evidence of one of the key problems the country faces – its hugely inadequate infrastructure. The roads are dominated by potholes, buildings are half finished and deserted. Minibuses hurtle around, expertly avoiding the potholes, packed to the rafters with fortunate passengers – for most people, the route to work is a long walk.
Later I meet all of the national staff and receive my security briefing before Bruno sets about telling me what I’m here to do. I’ll have to take adjusting to the heat, the language and the security situation in my stride.
Merlin has two bases, one in Bangui and a field base in Kaga Bandoro, 300km (200 miles) north of Bangui. We are currently providing basic health care to 60,000 people in the southern area of Nana Gribizi.
My first job is helping to prepare for a week-long assessment in Nana Mambere area in the west of CAR. This is a region the United Nations highlights for being in severe need of assistance, evidenced by reports of epidemics going untreated, spiralling death rates, health facilities with no drugs or equipment and a growing number of internally displaced people uprooted by ongoing violence in the area.
An assessment is a must for any Merlin team – we need to be able to witness the problems firsthand before we set about trying to improve things. They also help us report back to donors, international institutions and governments, generating awareness of the situation and, hopefully, vital funding for the lives we want to save and improve.
Twenty-four hours before the team is due to depart, Bruno and project officer Pete sit me down to tell me that I will now be part of the assessment team. Pete is unable to go due to his work load. While I’m disappointed for Pete – who I know really wanted to go – I am excited by the opportunity and the promise of exploring CAR.
